1963 ford thunderbird pulley3/29/2024 (this was a pulley called for in the parts manual - took me forever to find the darn thing COAE- 3A733-A). Not a very good picture but you can see where the new PS pulley is slightly dished out to match up with the added outer crank sheave. I may have been looking at a 430 configuration? although in that picture in the manual the PS pulley sure looks dished and not flat. A single belt to the PS pump from the outside crank sheave and then a single belt from the outside (3rd) water pump sheave to the compressor (well at least when I get the compressor put back on). I have mine configured with dual belts across the 1st and 2nd water pump sheaves going to the dual generator sheaves (had to change the generator pulley from single to dual). Sticking out like a sore thumb on page 12-35 figure 52 is a picture of a 352 with A/C. I just re-read the accessories section in the manual. It makes you realize how much load an AC compressor can add. If the belt tensions were not correct, we were actually breaking the crank pulley off of the front of the engine. ![]() The reason I even question this is that I worked for GM when they went to a cycling AC compressor. Another option is that I have a mismatched set of pulleys. I always felt that a Ford Engineer screwed up on his sizes somewhere and the cheapest fix was not to use the crank pulley. The problem is that even though the pulley sizes are staggered, the ratios are not correct and the belt will start squealing like crazy. All the pulleys lined up to run the AC from the crank pulley, over the water pump pulley and around the AC compressor pulley. The crank pulley is also a 3 sheave pulley with staggered sizes, and the outer pulley being a little smaller. My water pump has a 3 sheave pulley with the outer pulley being a larger size. I played around with these belts for a long time before I settled for the factory setup. I have destroyed a water pump bearing by over-tightening the belt trying to stop the slip and squeal with the standard non-ribbed belts. I tried to figure out a way to add another sheave to the crankshaft and an idler pulley to the compressor but as mentioned - change one thing and 4 other things don't fit - so I gave up and went with the original set up.īe sure and use an inside ribbed belt for the A/C and it shouldn't slip or squeal. I agree trying to drive the A/C compressor with the one original belt from the damper won't work. This means changing the single generator pulley to a 2 sheave. ![]() I think the secret on the Tbird is that you have to add the second pulley and belt to the WP/Gen/Crank system before you add the big heavy 3 sheave pulley for the single WP to A/C belt. The generator bracket holes were added or removed on some of the blocks so have to be careful there. Moved all my '60 A/C 352 pulleys and brackets to the new engine and they worked (thank goodness). My original 352 croaked about a year ago so I replaced it with a '64ish 360 or 390 (not sure which it is). I'd try to find the setup you need from the '60 Tbird. So that may require switching the water pump or PS bracket to make it all work. For instance the '62 390 Galaxie had a different A/C bracket than the '60 352 Tbird even though it's the same block. If you mix and match - most of the time they don't seem to work even though the parts book says they should - at least they didn't for me. Seemed like every time I changed one pulley to make the A/C work then the PS didn't align or the generator needed 2 sheaves rather than one etc.įinally found all the correct pulleys from the '60 352 with A/C and that worked on the original 352 of course. I'm adding A/C to my non A/C car (1960 - 352) - the A/C cars are different so needed to change pulleys.Īt first I tried this or that pulley from a different year Tbird with A/C. ![]() HD1960 - I went through pulley problems a while back.
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